The Main Course

If Ireland was my European Appetizer, the main course has arrived. One day has passed since I arrived in Croatia, landing in the port city of Pula where I'm spending two nights in a tiny hostel near the city center. This town is ostensibly the capital of Istria - an arrowhead shaped peninsula situated directly across the Adriatic Sea from Venice. This region is well known for its rocky beaches, frequented by German and Italian tourists, and its inland vineyards, truffles, and seemingly abandoned hill towns. I find Pula to lack the charm which Istria is well recognized for - its hard to hide the giant cranes in the harbor - but it remains a vibrant place to spend a few days and worth seeing for a day trip, if not a short stay. I have not been to some of the bigger Italian port cities such as Trieste or Genoa but I'd imagine them being quite similar, with Pula possessing a slightly more rustic and/or resort feel (its suburbs).

Some History:

Pula began as a Roman settlement, with a few notorious remnants from their rule. Though not quite as big as the one in Rome, the amplitheater rivals the colleseum in how well its been preserved. Most of the seating has been removed, but at the time, it could fit 22000 people, though for a town of only 5000, the math doesnt seem to add up. Today its used for performances of all sorts - currently tickets are on sale for Croatian version of Grease and a ballet. Pula has since been under the control of Venice, the Habsburgs, and most recently Yugoslavia before gaining its independence in the late eighties. During the Habsburg period Pula was the main naval command station, and James Joyce once was employed here as an english teacher - amusing, nice company - for their officers.

Small town Airport:

Arriving via plane alone emphasizes the difference between Croatia and its more modernized western counterparts. Though my antiquated guide book warned me it would be the case, I took for granted there would be public transportation from the airport that could shuttle me the 7 km to town, but clearly not. The only way in is via taxi, and luckily I was able to find someone willing to shuttle me in to the bus station for a mere 5 euros, significantly cheaper than the going rate of 100 kuna - about 20 usd, 15 euro. The airport in itself was quite empty, and there was little evidence of any new flights coming or going anywhere, anytime, in the near or distant future. I'd bet there were no more than 40 employees of all things airport oriented making the place run smoothly.

Next Steps:

I'm leaving for Rovinj in the morning, a smaller, more picturesque coastal town where I intend to stay three to four nights. The timing is based on the circumstances of my accomodation, the first place where I am going to have to arrange a sobe or homestay/private accomodation. It should be interesting, and hopefully not too expensive given the time of year. I look forward to writing about the experience of securing one - often by negotiation right outside the bus station. Also, coming soon will be a far more evocative explanation of my special interest in the balkans, and in effect, why I am devoting two months of my life to traveling to cities + places so far off manz peoples radar.